Nature’s Emulsifier for Skin Harmony

Formulation can be a tricky process when working with natural botanicals. Sometimes, subtle tweaks are essential to fine-tune stability, texture, or sensory feel. Other times, it’s the desire to elevate a product’s efficacy — when a new raw material like propolis, a fresh hydrosol, or a rare botanical oil inspires a transformation.

Recently, while refining the Vitamin B Serum although the serum passed freeze-thaw testing with flying colours, it showed signs of separation at room temperature. This prompted a deeper look into the emulsion’s architecture and recalculating the percentage of this unique element: lecithin. Being an amphiphilic molecule it possess both hydrophilic (water-loving) and hydrophobic (water-fearing) properties. This dual nature enables lecithin to interact with both polar and nonpolar substances, making it a valuable natural emulsifier. 

Just 0.8% of extra lecithin transformed the serum’s stability and texture, creating a silky, cohesive blend that not only now holds together beautifully but also enhances the delivery of the key actives: niacinamide ( Vit B3), d panthenol, (Vit B5)  and ambrette seed essential oil.

This post, explores the power of lecithin — its role in botanical formulations, its synergy with hydrosols, and why it’s been a vital ingredient in our lab for over 25 years.

What Is Lecithin, and Why It Works in Natural Formulations

Lecithin is a naturally occurring blend of lipids, primarily phospholipids, found in ingredients like soybeans, sunflower seeds, and egg yolks. In cosmetic formulations, it’s prized for its amphiphilic structure — meaning it has both water-loving (hydrophilic) and oil-loving (lipophilic) components. This dual nature makes it an exceptional emulsifier and co-emulsifier, capable of binding oil and water into a stable, harmonious blend.

But lecithin’s role goes far beyond just holding a formula together.

Why Lecithin Shines in Botanical Skincare

• Emulsification with Integrity
  Lecithin is minimally processed and often derived from cold-pressed oils, making it ideal for clean beauty formulations. It stabilizes emulsions without synthetic additives, preserving the purity of our botanicals.
• Penetration Enhancement 
  Thanks to its phospholipid content, lecithin can enhance the delivery of active ingredients - Vit B 3, 5, essential oils and antioxidant-rich hydrosols. It mimics the skin’s lipid bilayer, allowing actives to absorb more effectively with its osmolyte type properties.
• Sensory Elegance
  Lecithin imparts a silky, luxurious texture — smoothing the serum’s glide and reducing tackiness. It complements the delicate fragrance of ambrette seed and the freshness of hydrosols, creating a refined sensory experience.
• Barrier Support & Moisture Retention
  As an emollient and occlusive, lecithin helps reinforce the skin’s barrier and reduce moisture loss. This is especially valuable in serums designed to hydrate, soothe, and protect.
• Versatility in Formulation
  Lecithin can be used at 0.5–2% as a co-emulsifier, or up to 10% as a primary emulsifier, depending on the desired texture. In our serum, 0.8% was the sweet spot — balancing stability, texture and scent.

Lecithin’s Synergy with Botanical Ingredients

1. Enhanced Dermal Delivery

Lecithin contains phospholipids that mimic the skin’s natural lipid bilayer, allowing it to encapsulate active ingredients like niacinamide, d panthenol and ambrette seed essential oil.
This encapsulation improves penetration and bioavailability, helping actives reach deeper layers of the skin.
Ambrette seed, with its musky aromatic profile and skin-conditioning properties, benefits from this delivery system — making its effects more pronounced and long-lasting.

2. Stabilizing Hydrosols

Hydrosols are delicate and prone to microbial instability or phase separation.
Lecithin helps bind water and oil phases, creating a uniform emulsion that preserves the integrity of your hydrosols (like rose or plantain).
It also enhances the sensory texture, making the serum feel smoother and more cohesive.

3. Texture and Sensory Enhancement

Lecithin imparts a light, silky feel — reducing greasiness and improving spreadability.
It complements the soft floral-musky notes of ambrette seed and the fresh botanical tones of your hydrosols, creating a more harmonious skin experience.
The result: a serum that feels luxurious yet breathable, with a refined glide and finish.

4. Barrier Support and Moisture Retention

Lecithin supports the skin barrier, helping retain moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss.
This is especially valuable when paired with hydrosols that offer soothing or antioxidant benefits, amplifying their protective effects.

Why We Choose Sunflower Lecithin at Skyezone

At Skyezone, we exclusively use sunflower-derived lecithin — not soy. This choice reflects our commitment to low-allergen, non-GMO, and solvent-free ingredients that align with our botanical ethos. Sunflower lecithin is extracted without harsh chemicals like hexane, making it a cleaner, naturally derived skin-compatible option.

Compared to soy lecithin, sunflower lecithin offers:

• Lower allergenic potential, ideal for sensitive skin
• A lighter sensory profile, better suited to delicate formulations
• A higher concentration of phosphatidylcholine, which supports skin barrier function and enhances active delivery

It’s a quiet but powerful contributor to the integrity and elegance of our Vitamin B Serum — and a staple across our range of natural skincare.

So for all these reasons, you can expect that in our products, lecithin is working its quiet magic — thanks to nature, right there on your skin.